Tokyo, Japan - Reflections

Japan through my eyes

Walking along the streets of Japan, it dawned to me how alien this country feels. The vibes given off the people, building and atmosphere is distinctly different from the city where I came from and sometimes, I had to remind myself that people actually live here. Japan gives off this odd, exotic and strangely culturally-isolated feel which sets it apart from any other cultures and cities I am familiar with. While its modernity in the buildings and transport system is roughly similar (if not better) to other globalized cities, Japan somehow manages to successfully intertwine and incorporate her cultural flavor into the modern state’s structure. I cannot really identify the exact peculiarity which sets her apart and pinpointing the materialistic differences (such as the presence of innumerable Gachapon machines) will do no justice to how Japan actually feels. At the very least, these identifiable features are able to act as markers and beacons to the underlying cultural vein that throbs beneath these streets.

1.      Infrastructure

Japans history is fraught with changes. From ancient mountain communities to fighting shogunates to imperialism, Japan underwent long periods of both isolation and openness. Its relative geographic obscurity to the Far East as well as their famed period of isolation under the Tokugawa Shogunate may have helped developed a distinct culture from that of mainland China and Korea whom they are nearest to, yet it is the period after that, one of embracing globalization during the Meiji Restoration and their post-war economic miracle, that particularly define Japan as it is now today. While taking the HATO Bus Tour from Tokyo Station, I could see vestiges of a deep-rooted culture in the heartland of the country. The Tokyo Ginza district where the bus took me pass to is well-planned and spacious, hence it was easy to notice the spread of culture in the city. Amid the tall skyscrapers, one can spot several shrines of various kinds and sizes dotting across the heartland, distinct in its redness but sometimes obscure with only their pagoda-like roof structure and n-shaped gates to distinguish them from the towering modernity that is around them. Even the modern buildings in this upper-scale district incorporates a traditional design with the Kabuki Theatre being one of the most prominent. Coupled with the presence of seasonal trees such as the famous cherry blossom trees, all these made for an imperial palace-like aura; warm and bright orange in the autumn evening and sparkling and modern in the romantic night. I would akin the atmosphere to the feeling one gets when in Seoul yet Tokyo city have a more rigid and humble atmosphere to its surrounding.

City

The dazzle of electronic boards and advertisements might distract one from observing the sublime nuances of Japanese culture. Standing at the heart of Tokyo at the Shinjuku Crossing, the world-famous pedestrian crossing where hundreds of people walk through whenever a green man flashes, one will be bathed in the lights from billboards and shops. Japan is a first world modern nation with great infrastructure and a complex transport system yet Japanese cities takes on a monocentric encroachment development unlike the polycentric development in Singapore. As a result, Tokyo, like several other megacities such as Kyoto, will just continue to grow outwards by urbanizing nearby rural districts to become a sub-district of Tokyo before incorporating them into Tokyo itself. A complicated train system operated by both the national Japanese Rail corporation and private corporations connect every part of Japan with the former operating in the heart of Tokyo and the latter spreading its network away from the heart to wherever the city develops. It is an impressively efficient and precise service the Japanese people are able to indulge in for the train network is a definite mode of transportation in the city with the alternative being often congested roads, a problem found in many global cities. For most of my stay, I stayed at the Youth Olympic Centre located in a sub-district of Tokyo yet it only took me three stations to reach Shinjuku, the heart of Tokyo, through the privately owned Odakyu Line. In fact, in the space of one hour, one can reach most attractions in the Tokyo area.

Rural Countryside

While much focus goes to the cities in Japan, it is also common to hear of the wonders in the less urban areas in Japan. In fact, the modernity of Japan really do encompass even the rural parts of the land. I went to the Shizuoka Prefecture near Mt. Fuji during my stay in Japan and our journey there in a bus took us through vast tracts of farmland. However, even on those tracts, one can see the technological aspect and supremacy of Japan, with modern housing equipped with sufficient necessities and even luxuries on these dull abundant lands. Upon arrival at Gotemba in the Shizuoka Prefecture, which also houses the famous Lake Kawaguchi, it is hard to envision that this area is one of the laidback districts in Japan. Of course, the roads are incessantly skirting the various mountains, going up and down and around them, and the town’s population density is a lot less than in the packed city but the availability of paved roads, detailed manicured gardens and piers and modern houses in the towns makes it feel less so rural. Thus compared to rural areas of less developed countries, this “ruralilty” is rather more of a luxury or maybe even serves as a vacation place for the city dwellers.

2.      Life in Japan

While Japan do paint a rather magical, superior and yet humble coat to itself, I always wonder what it is like to actually live in Japan, to experience the city and its people. It is an especially difficult task given the limited time I had and the organized agenda I was in. Thus, I was only limited to mainly observation, deduction and a limited interaction. During my free day, I managed to excuse myself away from my raucous but friendly ASEAN peers to properly feel the running cultural tides that flow underneath this land. My sojourn into the city center of Tokyo at Shinjuku brought in many sights and sounds and amid the controlled chaos I was in, different patterns of people emerge.

Life in Japan- Working Culture

Japanese pride themselves for their ruthless efficiency and work rate and this can be seen from the fast movement of the crowd in the train stations, the top quality service one gets from the service employees, the precision and timing of scheduled meetings and the impeccable way everything is run. Everything was meticulously detailed and that hints of an underlying work and order. What then controls this order? At least in my opinion, Corporations control this order. Large corporations such as Mitsubishi, Aeon and Nintendo together with smaller working organizational structures, runs the Japanese society. These corporations encompass all aspects of the city life to an extent that almost everything seems to have been commoditized. The trains, the newspaper, the buildings, the anime products, the convenience stores are just some things to name a few. Their vast influence is what dictates the city’s monocentric growth and the vitality of the city, if not the entire country. 

 During a visit to Tokyu Group headquarters one day, I managed to ask Myo-san, a Tokyu Group employee, on life in a huge corporation and his answer was politically phrased. While he did admit the hard work involved, his answer also tinged of incredulity, as if to ask “Why would you even consider working here?” Nevertheless, it is perhaps worthy to note of the welfare one is entitled to once one is able to gain employment in such corporations. As Ogawa-sensei went on to divulge, every Japanese graduates aims to work for Japanese Corporations because once employed, your social welfare would be taken care of for life. Precariarty is not a defining feature of work in a Japanese Corporation. Instead, stability is a part of Japanese Corporate life.

Of course, there are also other alternatives to employment. A particularly big one seems to be in the service industry, especially one which helps propagate Japanese culture. What I am referring to are industries which involves creating the unique Japanese experience; anime, hot springs, ninjas and samurais etc. Along the streets of Akihabara, the manga city of Japan, and even in Kabukicho, the red light district in Shinjuku, one can find parts of the “packaged” Japanese culture in the maid cafes, robot restaurant and even in the weird products found in Don Quijotes. The rural areas of Japan also sought to maintain its rural charm and lifestyle, culminating in products such as natural hot springs and Wasabe plantations. “Experience” creation is indeed the next step after people have fulfilled their basic human necessities.

On one of the evenings, I ventured out on my own to find for a restaurant to eat and I took the train and found a Turkish restaurant quite a distance away from Shinjuku. There were three young men from the Emirates and a local Japanese man talking about finding work in Japan and I went to join them in their conversation. The Japanese man told us that in Japan, for a “Gaijin” (foreigner), it is easiest to find work either teaching English or to work in the service line such as in convenience stores. However, he also cited the meagre pay one will get from such jobs. Even then, it should be enough to maintain a frugal existence and to be able to experience Japan. (Well, if anyone is interested.)

Life in Japan – Living in Japan

The Japanese too have daily rituals of their own, distinct and probably only found in Japan. I was in a youth camp in Gotemba when I was encouraged to wake up early to join in an exercise session at the assembly point, which incidentally have Mt. Fuji magnificently propped as a backdrop. Thus, in the cold morning I gathered with numerous other children from boy scouts to university campers at the open ground. A radio was played for all to hear, broadcasting something called Radio Taiso. The incredible thing was how every single one of the local attendees, including my course coordinators and Ogawa-sensei who is perhaps in his 70s,  knew this song and had this synchronized set of routine movements to go along with the music. Apparently, this exercise routine, reminiscent to the Singaporean version of ACES day, was taught to every Japanese student since young and are being carried out in many parts of Japan, even in offices.

Another peculiarity in Japan is perhaps the concept of public baths. To be more precise, onsen. Yes, onsen, the hot spring one sees in Japan Hour. They can be found in most Japanese public facilities. For example, in the YOC dorm I lived in and the youth camp I stayed in, I bathed in an onsen every single evening and it was a memorable experience indeed. There are steps to using the onsen, of course. The first step is to strip down naked in a changing room located outside the onsen. Then, one enters the public bath and head to the showers usually found on one side or corner of the room. Over there, one takes a shower with soap and shampoo. Only afterwards can one enter the large hot tub or pool. People would usually chitchat or wind down in the nude in the relaxing bath, sometimes even for an hour. Finally, once one is done, they may take a shower and leave to dress up outside. A thing to note, however, is that these onsens are usually closed in the morning because Japanese tend to only bathe in the evening. This contrasts to the habits of ASEAN folks who would usually bathe in the morning and evening. In the morning, they would usually only wash their hair and dry it using a hair dryer.

Lastly, one aspect of city life I would want to point out is the vibrancy that Tokyo gets to offer. Many Japanese wind down the day with friends and work mates. After school, one may see groups of Japanese students heading to Akihabara, the manga city of Tokyo, pouring over the latest manga or ogling at the anime figurines on display. Many ladies head to the many shopping malls, with friends or spouses. As night encroaches, one can see the nightlife emerge. The streets of Kabukicho starts filling with shady but colourful characters. Pubs light up with merriness and Japanese songs can be heard emanating from them. Work colleagues often hang out until late in drinking and having fun especially on a Friday and I managed to see that open aspect of Japanese society when Yokohama University students hosted us for a dinner reception that culminated to a party session. Yet, in more residential districts, the night and early morning brought out a more rustic charm to the city. Japan and its people literally transform with the changing tides of the sun.

3.      Japanese Folks

A distinctive trait of the Japanese people is how courteous and proper they are to strangers and guests alike. My course conductors, Japanese professor, as well as any Japanese I met on the streets all displayed such traits. “Sumimasen” (Excuse me), “Arigato-gozaimas” (Thank you) and “Gomen-nasai” (Sorry) are some of the most common words one will hear in the streets. A similar pattern can be observed in Japanese students as I find them to be rather shy and less participative in class compared to the students in Singapore society. During a trip to the Immigration Museum in Yokohama, a suburban upper-class district of Tokyo, a presenter attributed these traits to the long period of isolation under the Tokugawa Shogunate. However, as one gets to actually know the Japanese people more, they are not shy in nature and their traits really depends on the character of the individual, much like in any other cultures. There may be jocks, nerds, bullies or even sluts. This can be noticed when one observes the Japanese cliques in Akihabara and also the way the students from Yokohama University carried themselves with such gaiety during our aforementioned dinner reception.

Nevertheless, it may also be inevitable that some remnants of culture transcends individuality. I refer of course to the hierarchical structure of Japanese society and the value of conformity to those of respectable positions which are also embedded in the Japanese language itself. Propitious trait which may have emerged from such a culture is organization and gumption, traits I noticed even from the residential organization of the elders in the Hazawa Seibu Community in Yokohama. In my opinion, I do find the Japanese people very approachable and always willing to help, as seen by the numerous help I received as I navigate Tokyo city during my free day. Every single person  whom I asked for assistance, despite  our communicative difficulties, will go the extra mile to ensure I find my way and I am truly grateful for their help.

4.      Japanese Language – Because I am a Linguist

A peculiar phenomenon I find about Japanese society is the prevalence of the national language, Japanese, and the relative absence of English. Unlike the majority of the world that subscribes to globalization where major emphasis have been put to promote the self-stylized Language of Science and Technology, Japan seems to lag behind in adopting this approach and instead, preferring to dwell with their organically developed language. However, that is not entirely true. Japan actually have a compulsory English education program but the percentage of successful English users are woefully discouraging. Many researches were conducted to solve this mystery and problem (especially since Japan will be hosting the 2020 Olympics soon) and several reasons were put forth.

Firstly, Japan is unable to create a cultivating Linguistic environment for the use of English. In the streets and in their daily routines, there is never a real need to use the language as a means for survival because everything can be achieved with Japanese. Furthermore, with their parent generation equally inept in the language this leaves no chance for the use of the language at home, and little way for a Japanese citizen to be able to practice using the language.

Secondly, the quality of English taught to students is also not up to the world's standards. Other than the quality of English in textbooks, some blame can also be attributed to language instructors. If a sensei is not able to speak the language proper themselves, how will the students learn the acceptable forms of English? Japanese English is tinged sharply with the Japanese language. For example, “Yes” may often be heard as “Yes-su”. This is in part due to the Hiragana and Katakana of Japanese used to explain how to speak English. Explaining how to speak a phonemic language is hard if one is educated in a morphemic language such as Japanese.

Finally, some research have also attributed the studying attitudes of Japanese students to their abysmal proficiency in the English Language. Japanese students it seems, are reluctant to make mistakes and hence participate in class. I did experience this first-hand, at least among my Japanese student guides who are reluctant to voice their opinions in class because they were afraid to say something wrong. However, as mentioned earlier, this is in no way part of the “Japanese identity.” In fact, conversely, when we interacted with Yokohama University students on one of the nights, I found them really open and full of gumption and spirit!

I was actually surprised by this phenomenon because as learnt in Sociolinguistics, Language can be used as a tool for  social distancing. A choice to use and learn another language is an indication of willingness to be close to your interlocutor and vice versa the opposite also holds true. The prevalence of Japanese language might suggest a nation wary of the globalizing world with a tendency for isolation given a choice. Or maybe they are just very proud of their identity. It may also be that perhaps the prevalence of the language and its importance and prestige is the reason for the unique Japanese vibe and their successful cultural preservation. Nevertheless, this phenomenon is a very interesting notion to research on.

5.      Japanese Peculiarities

There are many other materialistic features that one may spot in Japan. As mentioned earlier, one may find numerous shrines. Even without the presence of a large shrine, there usually are smaller shrines found around the city area of Tokyo; in the building itself or at a back of an alley. They are a part of the society.

Amulets and charms. One can purchase them in several shrines. I bought some at the Great Shinshoji Temple in Asakusa and the Kotoku-in in Kamakura. They are said to contain spirits, if properly done, which can help one according to the purpose of the amulet or charm. They are prices at around S$5-S$15++, depending on the type of charm. I brought back about 10 spirits home.

Japanese uniform. The Japanese students wear a sleek and cool looking uniform called seifuku for the ladies and gakuran for the gentlemen which resembles a sailor uniform for the former and a military-like formal attire for the latter. The children, depending on their age group wears colour-specific caps, thus one might see a yellow or white cap on a children and you can guess their age from the colour of their caps. 

Vending machines. They are everywhere. Even in the rural areas, there are vending machines every few meters from one  another. While they usually serve hot and cold beverages (the hot beverage being a welcoming treat in the cold autumn weather), one can also find food, fruits and even umbrellas dispensed in these machines.

Food. Japanese food is oishi! (Delicious!) The ramen and other kinds of Japanese food found in Singapore cannot compare to the Japanese food found there. The diversity of Japanese food can be traced to periods of immigration overseas during times of hardship where those who returned added the cultural remnants of the society they came from into the traditional cuisines. One should definitely try the ramen, udon, crepe and that tasty seasoning they put on rice. (I have to find that seasoning in Singapore.) Just thinking about it makes me crave to taste Japanese food in Japan.

Gachapon machines. One of the first things I noticed in Japan is the availability of so many Gachapon machines. They appear in rows after rows in shopping centres, outside shops, as a shop by itself and at every tourist attractions. These capsule machines usually contains small gifts and toys such as Pokemon figurines or a Samurai keychains and are priced between 200 yen to 400 yen (S$2+ to $$4+). One simply puts coins into a coin slot and turn the knob. A capsule will drop with your random item inside. While they may seem expensive, I find them to be relatively cheap compared to things you can buy from retailers and shops there. In fact, I probably should have noticed this earlier for afterwards I started using these machines to buy souvenir keychains instead. (Well, for myself, not for my friends. I actually spent a great deal on normal gifts XD)

Which brings me to the price of things in Japan! It is a well-known fact that Tokyo is an expensive city to live in. What one might be shocked with is the price of goods there as well. Food is in the range of S$10 for a simple meal (and if one is not picky with Halal food or certain types of food) but a typical meal in a restaurant can be in the range of S$20. Gifts such as shirts or toys are also very pricey. I bought a Bulbasaur soft toy about the size of two fists at the Pokemon Centre Tokyo, and they cost me S$20+ (Yup, for a soft toy it sure comes hard on the wallet). A decent keychain usually cost around S$4. Everything is expensive!

Anime. I followed Yu-Gi-Oh, Naruto, Fairy Tail, One Piece, Pokemon, Digimon, Masked Rider (The first one, not the lame continuations that followed), Ultraman Tiga, Fullmetal Alchemist and Bleach when I was younger up till now and it was an ABSOLUTE DELIGHT to be able to walk the streets of Manga City, Akihabara. If you follow any Japanese animes or icons, do check out this city. Displays and shops after shops of everything an anime fan can ask for is in this city. I would spend a lifetime there if I could, but sadly I only had one free day.

Culture. Samurais, Ninjas and Onsens! Japan truly have an interesting heritage. Do try some of the rituals in the temples and explore the museums (quite cheaply priced) around Japan. There is a free museum with quite an extensive collection called the JP Tower Museum Intermediatheque near Tokyo Station. You may want to try that out! I visited Meiji Shrine one morning and participated in some rituals which was truly a unique and interesting experience. I also visited a famous tourist hot spring, on the recommendation of Ogawa-sensei, at Hakone and tried the first class hot spring there. There were more than 5 types of hot springs in different solutions (milk, alcohol, dead sea salt etc), a really steamy sauna, outdoor cold baths and a first rate chilling area where one just lounge around on tatami mats and cushions. Free tea is also provided. It costs around S$10 for an hour but S$25+ for a full day and I think it is really worth it. Furthermore, I did manage to see my Japanese professor in the nude! Given the chance I would want to explore more of Japan and experience more stuffs which I missed, like perhaps a Japanese club or the Capsule hotel or even a stay in a Japanese farm but time did not permit. Someday, I will head back to  properly experience the charm and life of Japan!

These are just some thoughts and things I saw and felt during my ten day trip to Japan from 13^th March 2017 to 23^rd March 2017. Many of my experiences was from the eyes of a tourist and a student in a program aimed to understand Japanese culture. And since then, many weeks have passed since I took a stroll in the chilly windy morning at Yoyogi Park or looked up to the large electronic billboards piercing the night sky at the Shinjuku Crossing. There are still many things which I have yet to understand about Japan and how the society works and in truth, I hope I was able to capture a gist of its essence during my short stay there. What I do know, however, is that through this experience, a certain part of Japanese culture is embedded into my Self. (George Herbert Mead)

Arigato-gozaimas! Mata ne!

I will also be writing a short summary of the places of interests that I went to and my trip itinerary on a separate blogpost. Thanks for reading!